Composting, a goldmine in your garden!

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Composting is not only one of the best things you can do for your garden, it is also one of the best things you can do for our environment. Knowing how to make and use compost is in the public interest due to the tremendous problem of waste disposal. Landfills are becoming harder and harder to find and municipalities are developing alternative methods of dealing with waste such as refusing to pick up leaves and grass clippings.. About one-third of the space in landfills is taken up with organic wastes from our yards and kitchens, which are ideal materials to be recycled.

The end product produced from your bin will be a wonderful pile of black, crumbly humus which makes an ideal soil conditioner. This humus added regularly to your soil will inevitably benefit the soil. The soil structure improves because this material will loosen up clay soils and conversely, create a moisture holding capacity in sandy soils.

Composting, in the simplest of terms, is the controlled decomposition of biodegradable organic matter. Instead of allowing nature to take its slow course, a pile or bin provides the optimal environment in which decomposition can thrive. To encourage the best results, the pile needs the correct mix of the following ingredients:

� Carbon

� Nitrogen

� Oxygen

With enough time, all biodegradable materials will eventually decompose. However not all materials are appropriate for backyard composting. Most backyard systems will not reach high enough temperatures to kill pathogens and vermin, so certain items such as meat scraps, dairy products and pet droppings are not advisable.

High carbon sources provide the materials needed to convert to heat. High nitrogen sources provide the material to allow the decomposing bacteria to thrive.

High carbon materials (browns) include;

� Dry straw and hay

� Autumn leaves

� Newspaper

High nitrogen materials (greens) include:

� Green plant material such as garden residue, fresh hay, grass clippings, and weeds

� Animal manure; such as horse, cow, chicken, or guano

� Fruit and vegetable waste

� Seaweed ( rinse well to remove salt)

� Coffee grounds and filters

A few leave species such as live oak, the southern magnolia and holly trees are too tough and leathery for easy decomposing, also avoid all parts of the black walnut tree as they contain a plant poison that survives composting. It is also common sense to avoid using poison oak, poison ivy, and poison sumac in your compost.

The proportions of these materials will make a difference in the rate of decomposition. However achieving the best mix is not an exact science. The best ratio is about 25 or 30 parts of browns to one part of the greens. Too much carbon slows the decomposing process and too much nitrogen will cause odors.

As a convenience, keep a small pail in the kitchen to bring your scraps to your pile every few days. Keep a lid on the container to discourage insects and odors.

Getting started

A well chosen site will speed up the decomposing process. Look for a level, well drained sunny area preferably over dirt or grass. If you plan to be using kitchen scraps, keep it close to the back door and also near to the garden so that it will be used on a regular basis and not neglected. Is also a good idea to screen it from your neighbor�s sight if you happen to live in an urban area. Be discreet!

Home composting uses a variety of techniques, running the gamut from extreme passive composting (throw everything into a pile in the corner and leave it alone) to extreme active which consists of monitoring temperature, turning the pile on a regular basis and adjusting to the materials in the pile regularly.

One example of a well designed composter has two compartments, which will provide you with a continuous supply of compost in a very short time and with a small amount of effort.

A well managed system such as this may produce a finished product in as little as three to four weeks, but there are other composter systems which involve active participation, ranging from turning the pile on a regular basis to a major commitment of time and energy.

Is very helpful to have your bin enclosed in a structure either homemade or purchased. The bin should measure at least about 3 ft. by 3 ft. and should have air spaces so that aeration will occur. Materials such as used freight pallets, chicken wire, builders� hardware cloth or concrete blocks can all be used to create a three sided structure. You may find it desirable to have two bins, one to accumulate fresh material while the composting process is happening in the other bin. Leave one side open for access or create a gate that can be opened for access. A tarpaulin may be used to cover the top of the bin in rainy weather to prevent the materials from getting too wet.

Start your pile with 3 in. layer of course plant material such as small twigs or straw. This will aid in aeration and drainage, then place your first layer of plant and kitchen refuse. The next layer should be a nitrogen rich material such as fresh manure if it is available, fresh grass clippings, fresh hay, or succulent green weeds. If the waste materials are free of soil for the most part, small amount of soil, a compost starter, or a layer of old humus or good gardening soil added to each layer will introduce necessary microorganisms.

Water the pile just enough to keep the contents moist but not soaking wet. In a week or two, the pile should heat up to approximately to 160 degrees Fahrenheit. At this temperature many of the weed seeds and harmful organisms will be killed. Approximately a month after this point the pile should be forked over to thoroughly mix the materials in the pile. Repeat this step in another five to six weeks. If the pile is decreasing in size after this time, you will know that it is working properly.

The finished product will be black and crumbly, like good loam, with a pleasant, earthy smell. The humus is now ready to use.

Another system of making humus is called sheet composting. A layer of organic material, about 3 to 4 in thick is spread over your garden, and then covered with a 2 in. layer of soil. The organic material is allowed to decay at least three months prior to cultivating. This can be done over the winter when your garden is fallow and will provide you with a good start for your spring crops.

A different concept of composting that is rapidly gaining in popularity is vermicomposting This is a small scale operation which is well-suited to turn kitchen waste into high-quality soil, particularly where your space is limited. There are suppliers of worm-farming equipment on the internet to get you started.

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